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Express Makeup ReviewI love learning new techniques for makeup and have an extensive collection of books from many top makeup artists. "Express Makeup" promises to show how to do makeup quickly at home but devotes much of it to extreme runway looks that few women could wear. Some sections of the book are very informative whereas others - like how to apply the makeup - barely skim the surface. Honestly, I expected more from Rae Morris' book and was somewhat disappointed.
The good:
* The book includes a description of a basic makeup kit, including baby wipes, moisturizer OR primer (not both), a homemade facial scrub (equal parts baking soda and water based cleanser); moisturizer & foundation, either both water-based or oil-based but not combined; powder blush if using powder foundation, cream blush if using liquid foundation. Blotting papers, which are better than powder for controlling shine; highlighters; best type of tweezers (slanted); brow pencils and brow mascara; kohl pencils in different colors; eye shadows; eye lash curlers and black waterproof mascara; the right shade of lipstick (darker than your natural color).
* A great overview of the make-up brushes you need and where to get the best ones (her website).
* Express tips for skin, lips, hair - this section is much too short.
* Foundation - a fairly complete chapter that covers the different types available and how to shop for the right concealer.
* Eyelashes - an informative, in depth look at the different types of lashes and how they can transform your eyes.
* Eye color chart - useful palettes which complement and intensify different eye colors.
* Eyebrows - different brow shapes are digitally altered on the same model to show how their shape affects your look. Eye opening, no pun intended. She then shows the ideal brow - very little arch and fairly straight.
* The photography is stunning, the women are all beautiful, but the instructions are lacking - only the colors are indicated with no mention of technique ("apply mascara.. apply lipstick"). The reader is referred to her previous book (Makeup: The Ultimate Guide) for step-by-step instructions, as this is an "express" book.
* It's worth buying if you already own her previous books. Granted, it's possible that this book excludes much information given that another one of her books, Beautiful Eyes: The Ultimate Eye Makeup Guide, was generally panned for being a recycled section of "Makeup: The Ultimate Guide."
The bad:
* She provides a shopping list but no specific brands, which would have been be most helpful as quality, pigment concentration and coverage vary widely.
* Eye & skin prep are glossed over - basically, use a baby wipe to clean your face, moisturize or prime but not both, and don't moisturize your eyelids or the shadow won't stick. She does not go into the basics of skin care because - again - this is an "express book".
* Highlighting - as a way to look younger, it's a technique I've rarely seen used to the extent shown here. The overall effect is too shiny and not subtle.
As for the makeup section, there are 37 different looks shown, which range from very natural to way over the top. Most are clearly for runway or still photography and only about half could be used for everyday or for special occasions. It is unfortunate that in too many looks, the makeup is all you notice. Makeup should complement and enhance, not be the focal point.
The makeup boils down to the following types of looks (mixed up throughout the book):
1) Natural looks - light foundation, concealer, light powder, mineral blush, curl lashes, black mascara, lipstick. One with red lipstick; same one but with false lashes added; another with coral shadow/ lipstick; lavender shadow/ soft pink lipstick. Taupe eye shadow, soft bronzer, nude lip. "Eternal summer" with golden shadow, brown eyeliner, lots of mascara, white pencil on inner rims, some highlighter and nude gloss (very summery look). Same model, different look using grey shadow and nude lipstick.
2) Evening looks - rich eye shadows, gel eyeliner, white pencil on inner rims, foundation and luminiser, curl lashes and mascara, apply lipstick. 1940's style with light eye shadow, eyeliner, false lashes and dark burgundy lips (very dramatic); brown eye pencil and tangerine blush with lots of mascara and orange lipstick (very Rita Hayworth).
3) Smoky eyes - makeup for Asian women; cats eye makeup; brown smoky eye; Cleopatra eyes (killer onyx); ultra lux evening eyes with black eyeshadow and reddish brown kohl and false eyelashes (quite nice actually); "alluring perfection" which shows how to get eyeliner on perfectly angled using tape (very interesting); "amethyst supreme" aubergine shadow is used to intensify brown eyes for a sultry look (very well done). How to lift your eyes with eyeliner/ tape as a stencil.
4) Dramatic makeup - very thick eyeliner; a monotone look with way too much highlighter; a natural look with bleached eyebrows; black eye shadow and burgundy black lipstick for darker skin; black shadow and black lipstick on light skin (very Goth and not attractive at all); orange glitter eye shadow; bronze eye shadow with neon orange eyeliner (no thanks); orange and purple eye shadow with bright red lipstick; gold eye shadow and white liner inner rims. Silver pigment on inner corners of eyes (which frankly looks a little alien); intense blue shadow and "as much mascara as humanly possible" (Tammy Fae look); metallic eye shadow that uses lots of glitter and latex glue as a base (no thanks). 1960's inspired makeup with thick eyeliner and pale lips.
5) makeup for mature women - very flattering using neutral matte shades. Worth a look - three different looks, all very sophisticated yet natural.
In all, the book is well done but not for a beginner. If you love experimenting with makeup and color, are already familiar with techniques and are more interested in how runway looks are done, this book is perfect for you. If not, there are still several looks to try. It makes for a bit of a mish mosh with no specific signature look, but then again, it tries to cover looks for different audiences.
If you are looking for super fast, step-by-step how-to book with different looks on real women, there are better books available. Fr example, The 5-Minute Face: The Quick & Easy Makeup Guide for Every Woman by Carmindy is much more user-friendly, suitable for women of all ages and races, shows day/ evening makeup and includes specific product, brand and color recommendations at different price levels.
Makeup Makeovers in 5, 10, 15, and 20 Minutes: Expert Secrets for Stunning Transformations is another great book which shows step-by-step makeup for everyday and special occasions, with lots of detail. Before and after shots show the dramatic transformation a little makeup can do. However, all you notice is how amazing the woman looks - not the makeup. Like Morris' book, it goes into detail about brushes, highlighting, contouring etc but is far more comprehensive and practical.
In all, Rae Morris' book is good but misses the mark a bit for its lack of focus and instructions.
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